(Francesca & Co. Travel)

Florence
Ponte Vecchio

"Whichever way you turn, you are struck
with picturesque beauty and faded splendor
in Florence."

Florence is the world's celebration of the triumph of the human spirit.
We are in love with the beauty of Florence, its harmonious landscapes,
Renaissance centri storici, Romanesque churches, all of the art,
the food and the people. If you like to walk, then this is your city.

Travel Info, Getting to Know Florence, Mangia,
Recipes, Shopping Checklist, Books, Movies, & Music

  • Maps
  • Daily Weather
  • Year Round Weather Averages
  • Florence Amerigo Vespucci Airport
  • How to Get into Florence
  • La Nazione-Florence news
  • Currency
  • Rail Guide
  • American Express
  • Passport/Visa Info
  • Bromo Tower

    Getting to Know Florence

  • Greeting someone in Florence
    It is considered very flattering to attempt a little Italian, so try 'buon giorno' (good day) or 'buona serra' (good evening after 3pm) if you feel linguistically inclined. On formal occasions, shaking hands is a well-understood greeting and is quite sufficient. Don't address someone by their first name unless you know them well, however, as this could be seen as rude. We'd recommend getting something like Getting by in Italian : A Quick Beginner's Course for Tourists and Business People or Italian: Pimsleur Basic to make the trip more enjoyable.

  • Tipping advice
    Expect to tip five to ten percent over standard service charge to waiters in restaurants . Taxi drivers should get between five and ten percent whereas chambermaids and bellboys should get up to 5 Euro. Smaller tips to any other staff are sure to be appreciated, as tipping is widely practiced in Italy.

  • Florence dress code
    Florentines are very style conscious. Like their food, they are very simple in style, using only the finest quality of fabrics. Unlike Americans, who travel in running suits and tennis shoes, the Florentines never wear tennis shoes unless they are out for a run or are a young child. Even riding their bicycles, the men are in suits and the women are wearing skirts, nylons & heels!!
    Clothing that is of the lighter density is preferable for comfort within the summer months - you never can depend on air conditioning , it is not necessarily available everywhere. As for the fall/winter months, the temperature varies from mild to cool. A good idea would be to dress in layers & always have a raincoat and/or umbrella on hand.

  • Local Customs
    Shops & restaurants vary on their days and hours of operation so always call ahead to verify that they are open.

  • Places to Avoid
    Florence is a safe city compared to most large cities, but this doesn't mean to relax completely. Wherever their are large groups of tourists, there are sure to be pickpockets and bag-snatchers around. The train station, Piazza Santa Maria Novella & the Duomo are good areas for this to happen, mostly after dark.

  • Fiesole
    When city life wears you down, go to Fiesole!!! Just 25 minutes on the frequent bus #7 from the station, Duomo, or piazza di San Marco. Once there you are immediately in the countryside. It's very tranquil and charming yet sophisticated. We definitely recommend eating here. One place to try is Da Mario.
  • cafe e patisserie

    Mangia

      Food in Tuscany is very simple. When you taste the robust flavors, you'll see why they don't need to get too complicated. Central Italian cooking is deeply rooted in peasant tradition. Basically it's all about bread (made without salt), local olive oil, fresh ingredients and wine. As dishes are based on tradition and local produce, much use is also made of food gathered from the wild; funghi, game, nuts, field herbs and - the area's greatest culinary treasure - truffles. Here the home cook rather than the professional chef rules, most restaurants seek to produce food just like nonna, or grandmother, used to make.

      A typical Tuscan meal will start with an antipasto of crostini, small pieces of toast spread with pate, or fettunta, toasted bread rubbed with garlic and amply dressed with fine olive oil. Don't forget to try fresh buffalo mozzarella as well.
      The Tuscan primo is a hearty soup rather than pasta. They are usually vegetable and/or bean soups that can be served as is, or they can be recooked with stale bread.
      For secondo the celebrated Tuscan dish is bistecca alla fiorentina, an enormous steak from Italy's best beef cattle. It is seared on the outside and rare on the inside. Other favorite dishes include tripe and various animal parts cooked.
      Dolci tend to be simple as well--either some cantucci, biscotti dipped in Vin Santo, fresh fruit of the season, a heavy panforte packed with candied fruit, castagnaccio, a peasant cake made from chestnut flour, rosemary, pine kernels and raisins, or finally, a soft almond lozenge-shaped ricciarelli. Just don't forget to walk afterwards so you can work up an appetite for some delicious gelato.

      Here's some other great items Tuscan cuisine is known for:

    • Fagioli--Tuscan white beans with either olive oil, butter and sage or red sauce
    • Ribollita--rich bean and cabbage soup with bread
    • Pappa Al Pomodoro--tomato bread soup
    • Tagliatelle and Papardelle--favorite ribbony pastas topped with sauces like burro e salvia (butter and sage), ragu (meat sauce) or salsa di pomodoro (tomato sauce)
    • Il Cacio Con Le Pere--pears with cheese

    Other things to keep in mind:

    Traditionally, Italians consider cappuccino a morning drink and, generally,
    after 11:30 am switch to espresso.

    Never let them see you put cheese on ANY SEAFOOD DISHES. You will be scolded!

    Plan on at least 1 hour for lunch if you sit down and eat. Give yourself up to 3 hours for dinner. A meal is like a journey-each course a separate road. They allow you plenty of time to take it all in and work up your appetite for the next course.

    Try to get into the spirit and order as many courses and vino as you can handle. They cook very lightly. Plus, how often do you get to Italy to have some of the most divine food in the world??

    Vino!!! There is not enough room to go on about the wines from the Tuscan region. So here's some quick facts. Tuscany is known for being a predominately Red wine region. The wines that they are most known for are: Chianti Classicos, Super Tuscans, Montalcino, Montepulciano and Vin Santo.

    Here are some restaurants where we had wonderful, memorable dining experiences and gelaterias that saw a lot of us during our stays:

        Enotecas, Trattorias & Ristorantes

      • Enoteca de' Giraldi Via de' Giraldi 4r, (055) 216518 A wonderful, welcoming enoteca split into 2 sections: a dining area & a wine area. Let yourself be guided by the knowledgeable staff led by owners, Andrea & his wife, Anita. They also offer wine tours & language courses--including Tuscan Bread, Wine & Culture.
      • Osteria Belle Donne Via delle Donne 16r, tel (055) 2382609. Very small, inexpensive local Florentine hangout. Food is just wonderul. Make sure you speak to the owner, Tony.
      • Trattoria Sostanza (Il Troia) Via del Porcellana 25r, no phone. Simple, delicious Florentine cuisine at its best. Low-key, friendly service in a pleasant atmosphere. They are famous for their Bistecca alla Fiorentina
      • Buca Lapi Via del Trebbio 1r, (055) 213768. Recommended by friends. One of the oldest establishments in Florence. Located in the basement of the Antinori villa.
      • Ristorante da Lino Via Santa Elisabetta, 6r, tel (055) 284579. Great food, easy prices and helpful owners.
      • Trattoria S. Agostino Via S. Agostino 23r, (055) 210208. The food never disappoints. A word to the wise, no English is spoken here, but the food is worth all of the hand gesturing and pointing. If you bring your travel book with you, most dishes are translated in there.
      • Trattoria Camillo Borgo S.Jacopo 57r, tel (055) 212427. Recommended by a local Florentine. Again, another great place. Go for the fried zucchini flowers.
      • Ristorante Ottorino Via delle Oche 12-16r, (055) 218747. Typical surly Florentine service. Many locals. Again, food is very well-prepared. Can't go wrong here.
      • Trattoria ZaZa Piazza Mercato Centrale, tel (055) 215411. Great atmosphere as well as food. Perfect place to wind up after shopping at the market.
      • Trattoria La Carabaccia Via Palazzuolo 190r, tel (055) 287141. Inexpensive cafe - very funky, artsy crowd. Perfect for a midday meal and to rest your poor, tired, aching feet. Great antipasto & salads, soups. New owners had just taken over, but everything still seems the same (thank goodness). A warning: English may or may not be spoken, depending on who's waiting tables that day. We found with rudimentry Italian that we got everything we ordered.
      • Caffe Degli Artigiani Via dello Sprone 16r, tel (055) 214782. Inexpensive trattoria near the train station. Very personable staff and the food will leave you happy.

        Gelaterias

      • Il Granduca Via dei Calzaiuoli 57r, tel (055) 298112. A must for gelato lovers--some of the best in town.
      • Vivoli Via Isola delle Stinche 7r, tel (055) 292334. The other place for some of the best gelato in town that we have tried so far.
      • L'Angolo del Gelatoi Via della Scala 2r, tel (055) 210526. Family owned, very friendly service. Everything is freshly made & only with fresh ingredients.

        **Don't forget to order your gelato with panna montana, fresh whipped cream!!!

    Recipes

    Pappa Al Pomodoro

    This is a typical Tuscan soup, thick and hearty. Simply made with bread, tomatoes and broth. It's one of the many reasons that brings us back to Florence.
    • 1/2 cup of olive oil
    • 1 large red onion,finely minced
    • Four 28oz cans of imported Italian pear tomatoes with their juices, put through a strainer or a food mill to remove the seeds
    • 5 cups of vegetable broth, preferably homemade
    • 10 slices of 4-5 day-old crusty Italian bread, cut into chunks
    • 2 cups of loosely packed fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped
    • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
    • Extra virgin olive oil
    Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until they are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and broth and bring to a gentle boil. Cook, uncovered, 15-20 minutes. Add the bread, mix well, and cook 20-25 minutes longer. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper.

    Remove the saucepan from the heat and beat the soup with a wire whisk until the bread is completely broken into small pieces and becomes and integral component of the soup. Serve the soup hot or at room temperature with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil dribbled over each serving.

    Makes 8 servings Enjoy!!


    Gelato di Caffe con gli Amaretti

    The secret to this is to use a coffee that is darkly roasted. This recipe requires an ice cream maker.
    • 4 egg yolks
    • 1/2 cup of superfine sugar
    • 1 cup strong espresso coffee
    • 1 cup cream
    • 2 egg whites
    • 12 amaretti biscuits, crushed
    Beat the egg yolks with the sugar in the top of a double boiler until thick and lemon colored. Add the coffee and, stirring constantly, cook gently in a double saucepan over simmering water until the mixture is thick. Let cool.

    Whip the cream until it stands in soft peaks. Beat the amaretti crumbs, the cream and the beaten egg whites into the cooled custard. Deposit into your ice cream maker & follow its instructions. Divide the ice cream in 6 serving dishes, or freeze until serving time. Sprinkle with the remaining amaretti crumbs before serving.

    Makes 6 servings

     

    Shopping Checklist

      Florentines have superb shops. They are beautifully presented, selling the most elegant, desired things. All are prettily wrapped when you have purchased them. Cheap, however, they are not.

        Leather Goods
      • Mercato di San Lorenzo -Shoes, jackets, luggage, belts.
      • Shoe shops -Many can be found on or around via Calzaiuoli. The designers like Gucci can be found on via Tournabuoni. Inexpensive shoes are on Borgo San Lorenzo and around via dei Panzani
        Fashion
      • The greatest known designers are on via Tournabuoni and via della Vigna Nuova.
      • There are two department stores Coin, via de Cerchi, and Rinascente, piazza Republicca.
      • The shops along via della Scala are inexpensive, trendy and for the young at heart.
        Marbled Papers and Stationery
      • Il Torchio, via de Bardi.
      • Giannini, piazza de Pitti.
        Antiques
      • Via dei Fossi and via Maggio will keep you busy.
        Food
      • Sant'Ambrogio market is a small-scale, friendly version the the Mercato Centrale.
      • Or just head into local food stores. Gourmet food stores include Gastronomia in borgo Santi Apostoli, Pegna in via della Studio, and Cibreo, via de Macci.
        Toiletries
      • If you want beautifully wrapped gifts to take home, try a farmacia or erborista. Best known are the Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella, in via della Scala, and the Eborista Palazzo Vecchio, in via Vacchericcia.

    David

    CINEMA, BOOKS & MUSIC

    Bring Italy home with these personal favorites:



    BOOKS

    COOKING

    MOVIES

    • The English Patient
    • A Room with a View
    • Much Ado About Nothing (Kenneth Branagh's version)
    • Stealing Beauty
    • Tea with Mussolini
    • Life is Beautiful
    • Cinema Paradiso
    • Big Night--you need to see this once you've had dinner in Italy


    FICTION and TRAVELOGUES



    The world is a book, those who do not travel, read only a page.  St Augustine

    Frani Hahn, Travel Consultant, Baltimore, MD, 410-435-0405, Tel, 410-433-7744, Fax

    Email: frani@francescatravel.com

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